July 2025

Tanah Le Saé, Shone Puipia, TOQA, Opini, Waa. Studios and more

Jakarta-based TANGAN Privé returned with a sculptural collection presented through a sensory spatial installation, while Tanah Le Saé followed with a curated presentation of its ‘Panasea’ collection at multi-retailer concept store PILLAR. Shone Puipia’s Paris showcase, ‘Hands Reshape’, displayed the designer’s nuanced approach to craftsmanship and material expression. Seire Collective readies the opening of its Bangkok flagship in Soi Somkid, and Marviaca’s newest drop brings a fresh interpretation to wardrobe essentials through asymmetry, layering, and minimalist lines. In the Philippines, TOQA’s mini collection continues the brand’s playful exploration of tropical futurism.

Vietnam’s Opini reflects on modularity and motion in its latest collection, while waa. studios turn to artisan techniques to shape their latest accessories collection. Aquafina Vietnam International Fashion Week welcomed a diverse lineup of Vietnamese designers alongside regional voices such as Malaysia’s Behati and Indonesia’s Studio Moral, whose collections explored deconstructed traditional silhouettes and a more timeless approach to design.

‘Through the Grapevine’ is a monthly round-up of fashion events across Southeast Asia, from collection launches to exhibitions, showcases, pop-ups, and more.


Indonesia

TANGAN Privé’s 2025 Collection. Image courtesy of TANGAN.

TANGAN Privé’s 2025 Collection. Image courtesy of TANGAN.

TANGAN Privé 
2025 Collection

TANGAN Privé is the made-to-order line from Jakarta-based label TANGAN, founded by Margaretha Novianty and Zico Halim. For its 2025 collection, the brand staged an immersive exhibition at Savyavasa, presenting a series of sculptural garments that reinterpret traditional textiles and forms, most notably the kebaya, through clean lines, structured tailoring, and a thoughtful use of materials. Developed in collaboration with spatial studio Kure-Kare-Ka and artistic director Shadtoto Studio, the showcase unfolded across three distinct rooms, where garments and space worked in tandem to create a cohesive sensory experience.

This season, the collection takes on a more fluid sensibility. Silhouettes are softened through pleats, drapes, and hand-beaded embellishments, creating a quiet rhythm that carries through each look. The installation brings attention to the materials and techniques behind the pieces, highlighting the craft that anchors the brand’s design language.

Tanah Le Sae’s ‘Panasea’ Collection campaign. Images courtesy of Tanah Le Sae.

 

Tanah Le Sae’s ‘Panasea’ installation at Pillar. Image courtesy of Pillar.

 

Tanah Le Saé
‘Panasea’ Collection

Tanah Le Saé presents ‘Panasea’ at PILLAR in Plaza Indonesia, a curated selection from its Jakarta Fashion Week 2025 runway debut. The collection continues the brand’s ongoing exploration of love, this time turning inward, reflecting on the search for self-love through emotional and personal reckoning. 

Founded in 2019 by Denniel Richard and Andika Wiradiputra, Tanah Le Saé is known for its gender-neutral approach to fashion and commitment to sustainable production, working primarily with vintage materials and recycled fabrics. Introducing softer, more feminine shapes within its fluid framework, the ‘Panasea’ collection experiments with draping and silhouette while preserving the romanticism and floral signatures the brand is known for. 


Thailand

Shone Puipia 2025 Paris Presentation. Image taken from Shone Puipia’s instagram.

Shone Puipia 2025 Paris Presentation. Image taken from Shone Puipia’s instagram.

Shone Puipia 
2025 Paris Presentation: ‘Hands Reshape’

Unveiled at Gallery Marguo in Paris, ‘Hands Reshape’ reflected Shone Puipia’s continued devotion to craft, gesture, and the tactile nature of clothing. Revisiting key looks from his body of work, most notably the 2023 ‘Hands’ collection, the exhibition displayed garments as artworks alongside visual references that shaped the designer’s creative universe. Rooted in Puipia’s hand-led practice, from sketching and pattern-making to finishing details, the garments reimagine the body with sculptural sensitivity. Among them are a translucent organza dress layered over hand-painted canvas, and sculptural silhouettes that conjure breast and torso forms, drawing on the expressive legacy of French-American artist Louise Bourgeois.

Seire Collective’s Edition 05 Collection. Image taken from Seire Collective’s Instagram.

Seire Collective’s Edition 05 Collection. Image taken from Seire Collective’s Instagram.

Seire Collective
Flagship Store Opening
Soi Somkid, Chidlom, Bangkok

Founded in 2020 by Tammy Amorn, Seire Collective is a Bangkok-based design platform grounded in architectural thinking and deep material research. Drawing on her training at London’s Architectural Association, Amorn brings a structural approach to clothing and works closely with Thai and Indian artisans to develop textiles through methods such as harvesting cotton along the Mekong River, hand-looming in India, and other time-honoured craft techniques. Each collection is shaped by extensive fieldwork, often beginning with research trips to rural communities where traditional material practices are studied and respectfully adapted.

This July, Seire Collective will open its first flagship store in Soi Somkid, Chidlom in Central Bangkok, offering a permanent home for its collections and ongoing craft-led creations. For more information on the store opening, head over to @seire.collective.

Marviaca’s new collection. Image taken from Marviaca’s instagram. 

Marviaca’s new collection. Image taken from Marviaca’s instagram. 

Marviaca 
New Collection Drop

Marviaca is a Bangkok-based fashion label known for its minimalist silhouettes and limited-edition wardrobe staples. With a focus on clean lines, neutral palettes, and thoughtful detailing, the brand offers polished essentials that double as everyday wear and quiet statement pieces. In its newest collection, Marviaca builds on this foundation with fresh interpretations of modern basics. The drop includes highlights like the asymmetric drape skirt and halter top, sheer wrap-over skirt, and silk camisoles.


Philippines

TOQA’s Evergreen 2.0: ‘PACITA’ Mini Collection. Image taken from TOQA’s website.

TOQA’s Evergreen 2.0: ‘PACITA’ Mini Collection. Image taken from TOQA’s website.

TOQA
Evergreen 2.0: ‘PACITA’ Mini Collection 

TOQA is a Manila-based fashion label and creative studio founded by Isabel Sicat and Aiala Hernando, known for its vibrant take on tropical futurism. Blending fashion, performance, and climate consciousness, the brand reimagines resort wear through sculptural silhouettes, upcycled materials, and an offbeat aesthetic rooted in the realities of island life.

With a strong emphasis on sustainability and circular production, TOQA transforms deadstock fabrics into playful, wearable pieces. Their latest mini collection, ‘Evergreen 2.0: PACITA’, which was introduced during a special pop-up at Bar Patina, features easy-to-style garments like the versatile Truffle Top, which can be worn multiple ways, alongside low-waist Board Shorties and mini wrap apron skirts in vivid, expressive prints.


Vietnam

Opini’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection: ‘Continuum’. Image taken from Opini’s Instagram.

Opini’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection: ‘Continuum’. Image taken from Opini’s Instagram.

Opini
Spring/Summer 2025 Collection: ‘Continuum’

An emerging fashion brand from Ho Chi Minh, Opini is a design studio that focuses on functionality, intuition, and form. Embracing modularity and fluid movement, their Spring/Summer 2025 collection, ‘Continuum’, features pieces such as tops with draped and gathered accents, a maxi skirt with curved panels and a detachable pocket, and an oversized hooded jacket. The collection reflects on the idea of time and continuity, where each piece is designed to shift and adapt with the rhythms of daily life.

Waa. Studios’ Summer Collection. Image taken from Waa. Studios’ Instagram.

Waa. Studios’ Summer Collection. Image taken from Waa. Studios’ Instagram.

waa. studios 
Summer Collection

Waa. studios is an accessories label founded in 2021 in Ho Chi Minh City, known for its gender-neutral leather goods that blend minimalist silhouettes with everyday functionality. For the summer, the brand introduces slip-on mules, lace-up strap sandals, quartz necklaces, and slouchy shoulder bags, each thoughtfully inspired by Vietnam’s local landscapes, culture, and traditions. This season also marks a deeper dive into materiality, as the brand works with artisan villages across the country, incorporating traditional techniques and locally sourced materials to craft its chic yet functional essentials.

Studio Moral’s ‘everything / everyday’ Collection on the runway. Image courtesy of Studio Moral.

Behati’s collection on the runway. Image taken from Aquafina Vietnam International Fashion Week’s website.

Aquafina Vietnam International Fashion Week 2025 
5 to 8 June
Nguyen Du Gymnasium, Ho Chi Minh City

Held at the Nguyen Du Gymnasium in Ho Chi Minh City from 5 to 8 June, Aquafina Vietnam International Fashion Week spotlighted a global roster of designers embracing sustainability and cultural identity under the theme “Pure Style Shines - Identity Creates Style”. The event opened with a meditative collection by Vietnamese designer Lê Thanh Hòa and featured the first Vietnamese presentation from French couturier Julien Fournié. 

Among the regional standouts were Behati from Malaysia, offering deconstructed silhouettes that subvert traditional tailoring, and Indonesia’s Studio Moral, whose genderless, modular collection reintroduced archival elements to explore a more timeless approach to dressing.

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