May 2025

Aesthetic Pleasure, Construction Layers, Mad Matter, Lespoir Studios, and more

From reimagined tailoring to tactile streetwear, this month’s standout collections from Southeast Asia showcase a shared commitment to craftsmanship and materiality.

Indonesia’s Aesthetic Pleasure embraces texture-driven minimalism, while SASSH presents a versatile take to their signature rib knits. The Philippines’ Construction Layers celebrates imperfect and unfinished details, while Thailand offers a trio of bold perspectives: Rose Romp Studio’s playful contrasts of materials, Mad Matter’s sporty essentials, and Tisi’s seafaring silhouettes rooted in artisan tradition.

In Vietnam, Lespoir Studios delivers fluid tailoring, while Cong Tri further experiments with modern couture. Malaysia’s Ghostboy closes the loop with a capsule collection that continues its exploration of Y2K nostalgia.

‘Through the Grapevine’ is a monthly round-up of fashion events across Southeast Asia, from collection launches to exhibitions, showcases, pop-ups, and more.

Indonesia

Aesthetic Pleasure’s Capsule Collection 2025. Image taken from Aesthetic Pleasure’s Instagram.

Aesthetic Pleasure
Capsule Collection 2025

Founded by Putri J. Ghariza in 2013, Aesthetic Pleasure focuses on infusing minimalist tailoring with quiet complexity through details such as asymmetric cuts, raw finishes, and a subtle architectural edge. The brand’s latest capsule collection expands on this language with a play on texture, featuring a lace coat with dimensional floral applique, a jacquard skirt with a subtle ruffle hem, and a matching slouchy cross-body bag.

SASSH
‘AM to PM’ Collection

SASSH, founded in 2020 in Jakarta, is a slow fashion brand that prioritises sustainability and minimises its environmental impact. Known for their vibrant knit designs and pastel color palettes, SASSH creates collections in limited quantities, often made to order with upcycled materials. Their newly launched ‘AM to PM’ collection features versatile wardrobe staples, from barrel pants and ruched tops to cardigans with contrasting stitch details and asymmetric panelled rib knits.

Phillipines

Construction Layers
III.V Collection Launch

The brainchild of CP Garcia and Kendrick Cay, Manila-based Construction Layers reimagines workwear with a contemporary sensibility. With sustainability at its core, the brand blends local and international natural fibers, embracing subtle imperfections like uneven dye and raw hems. Collection III.V introduces their first foray into womenswear, offering a sense of ease and fluidity through gathered balloon shorts, pleated accents, and a fluid double-breasted jacket in a palette of grounded, earthy tones. Presented in collaboration with PHx Fashion Group, the collection is available exclusively in-store at multi-brand boutique Comme Çi in Makati until July 8, 2025.

Thailand

Rose Romp Studio
Spring/Summer 2025 Collection: ‘Nobody Club’

Rose Romp Studio is a Bangkok-based menswear label that prioritises everyday wearability and comfort, with a design language that leans into relaxed silhouettes and understated detailing. For Spring/Summer 2025, the brand introduces ‘Nobody Club’, a collection that plays with inversion and layering to celebrate the beauty of the unfinished. Highlights include the Reverse Pants, which flip traditional construction by bringing the leather patch and seam lines to the front, and the Somewhere Tank, which layers two crumpled tanks in contrasting tones.

Mad Matter
Drop 01-2025 Collection

Mad Matter, a Bangkok-based label, often designs elevated basics for day-to-night wear. In its latest drop, the brand introduces a fresh lineup of essentials in neutral tones, from knitted tanks and pleated shorts to a rugby shirt made from patched striped jersey, and a relaxed-fit football jersey that brings a sporty edge to everyday dressing.

Tisi’s ‘Raw Rugged Lee’ Collection. Image taken from Tisi’s Instagram.

Tisi
‘Raw Rugged Lee’ Collection

With its fourth collection, ‘Raw Rugged Lee’, Chiang Mai-based Tisi looks seaward—drawing from the uniforms of 19th-century sailors, fishermen, and seafarers. Utilitarian silhouettes are reimagined through relaxed, baggy cuts, accented by functional details like generous pockets and lotus collars. As with previous collections, every piece is crafted alongside Thai artisans, using natural dyes and traditional weaving techniques that further reflect Tisi's approach to eco-friendly design and supporting local craftsmanship.

Vietnam

Lespoir Studios
Spring/Summer 2025 Collection

Embracing clean-cut tailoring with fluid, relaxed shapes, Lespoir Studios by Nhat Anh Nguyen creates versatile wardrobe staples for the modern woman. With materials sourced from Japan and Korea, Lespoir presents timeless pieces that slip easily between formal events to chic everyday wear. The new collection spotlights Fuji silk in a sculptural gown with daring side-waist cutouts, alongside a draped-neck top that introduces a graceful, relaxed silhouette.

Cong Tri
Fall/Winter 2025 Collection

Cong Tri’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection thrives on a dynamic tension between structure and movement, sharpness and softness. Renowned for his impeccable craftsmanship and ability to merge Vietnamese cultural narratives with a global perspective, Tri creates pieces that experiments with the boundaries of modern couture. A one-shoulder dress layered with spiky fringes and a cascading train plays with bold contrasts, while a sculpted woven bodice on another dress is softened by delicate chiffon trimming, introducing motion and fluidity. Meanwhile, a neon green sculpted jacquard dress, paired with a matching bomber jacket, brings a daring edge to the collection.

Malaysia

Ghostboy’s Eclipse Collection. Image taken from Ghostboy’s Instagram.

Ghostboy
Capsule Collection: ‘Eclipse’

Building on its roots in Y2K nostalgia and rave culture, Ghostboy's latest capsule collection, ‘Eclipse’ continues its exploration of playful yet expressive designs. Key pieces include a boat neck top with hook-and-eye closures for easy styling and a high-neck vest featuring gunmetal rivets. Completing the lineup, shorts with ruched gunmetal beaded drawstrings introduce a tactile quality.