Kuala Lumpur, Southeast Asia and beyond
Fashion X Business is a column that looks at how Southeast Asian fashion businesses are built to last.
Khoon Hooi showroom at APW Bangsar in Kuala Lumpur. Image courtesy of Khoon Hooi.
In Southeast Asia’s independent fashion landscape, building a label is a challenge, and sustaining it for 25 years even more so. Since launching his namesake label in Kuala Lumpur in 1999, Lee Khoon Hooi has quietly and successfully steered his atelier through the shifts of regional luxury consumption.
Known for sculpted volumes, intricate brocades and design that weaves regional craft traditions with contemporary tailoring, Khoon Hooi occupies a distinctive niche. While the house has built its foundation on a loyal base of private couture clients across Southeast Asia, its commercial footprint extends far beyond. It also shows regularly on the Paris trade circuit, securing international stockists, and consistently landing on Hollywood red carpets.
Operating an occasionwear house from Kuala Lumpur comes with real logistical considerations—from bridging the distance to Western fashion capitals to managing the creative dynamics between veteran pattern cutters and a new generation of design talent.
Here, Khoon Hooi sits down with us to reflect on over two decades in business, the realities of operating internationally, and how his atelier is preparing for the future.
Khoon Hooi has established itself as one of Malaysia’s most iconic fashion houses over more than two decades. What are your feelings and thoughts when you look back on this journey and the brand's enduring presence?
There is a deep sense of pride and gratitude for how far the brand has come. Fashion is constantly changing, and sustaining a presence for more than two decades requires not only creativity, but also resilience, adaptability and a willingness to keep exploring new possibilities.
Let us go back to the beginning. How did the brand come about, and what were the defining moments around its official launch?
Looking back, the defining moment was not just the official launch itself, but the gradual development of a clear and recognisable identity.
How would you articulate the unique selling point and signature design philosophy of Khoon Hooi in today's global market?
We draw inspiration from the visual richness and cultural diversity of Southeast Asia, interpreting these influences through a contemporary design eye with a European sensibility.
How have you balanced catering to your loyal base of private clients in Malaysia and the region while expanding your reach to international stockists and new global audiences?
Ultimately, we see our local and international audiences as complementary rather than separate. Our roots in Malaysia give us a distinctive perspective, while our international presence challenges us to keep evolving. The balance lies in remaining true to who we are, listening closely to our clients, and allowing the brand to grow organically.
“Our roots in Malaysia give us a distinctive perspective, while our international presence challenges us to keep evolving.”
Portrait of Khoon Hooi. Image courtesy of Khoon Hooi.
How has your approach to design and business evolved over the years, particularly when transitioning between ready-to-wear, bespoke, and lifestyle extensions? What does your creative process look like today?
In the early days, Khoon Hooi was very much a solo venture, with the creative direction relying largely on my own instincts, ideas, and personal vision. Over the years, as the brand has grown, my approach has become more collaborative. Today, I work alongside a team spanning creative and commercial functions, some of whom bring valuable experience from working in Europe. This diversity of perspectives has enriched the way we approach design, encouraging more dialogue, the exchange of ideas, and a deeper consideration of how creativity translates into a collection.
Khoon Hooi vacation capsule collection. Images courtesy of Khoon Hooi.
Collaboration and partnerships—from lifestyle brands to special capsule projects—have played an interesting role in your brand universe. What makes you say yes to a collaborator, and how do these partnerships contribute to the business?
We choose our partners carefully, prioritising shared values, mutual respect, and the potential to create something meaningful together. Whether we are designing uniforms or developing products for a CSR (corporate social responsibility) initiative, our aim is to ensure that the collaboration feels authentic to both parties and reflects the belief that design can serve a purpose beyond aesthetics.
How do you approach brand positioning and international PR? Is there a strategy or formula that has proved tried-and-tested for building visibility across regional and global media platforms?
Brand positioning and international public relations are areas we continue to develop, and I believe there is no single formula that guarantees success. Our current focus is on strengthening Khoon Hooi’s ready-to-wear positioning internationally.
We are exploring opportunities to work with European-based partners who bring extensive networks and relationships with notable stockists. We see this as an important step towards placing the brand in the right retail environments, where our design philosophy and craftsmanship can be understood and appreciated by a wider audience.
Celebrity dressing is another important part of our international visibility strategy. Los Angeles has been a key hub for connecting with stylists and their clients, particularly around Hollywood events and red-carpet moments.
How do you measure the success of a luxury fashion brand today? What quantitative and qualitative indicators matter most to you?
For us, success is measured through a combination of commercial performance, the quality of our partnerships, and the lasting relationships we build with our customers.
Khoon Hooi Fall 2026 collection. Image courtesy of Khoon Hooi.
What is the single biggest challenge of operating a luxury fashion house in Southeast Asia? Conversely, what are the greatest pleasures of running the business?
One of the biggest challenges of operating from Southeast Asia is the geographical distance from the major international fashion capitals. We have to work harder to ensure that the brand is seen, heard, and recognised on the international stage. Building that visibility often requires us to establish meaningful associations with overseas partners, from showrooms and stockists to public relations networks and industry connections. These relationships are important, but developing them takes time and financial investment.
The greatest pleasure, however, comes from the relationships we build with our customers. As an occasionwear brand, we have the privilege of dressing people for some of the most meaningful moments in their lives.
Behind every couture and ready-to-wear piece is a skilled team. Could you share more about the key members of your atelier and business team who make Khoon Hooi run seamlessly?
Our atelier brings together a mix of experienced artisans and younger talents fresh out of fashion college, working across pattern making, cutting, sewing, embroidery, and quality control.
One of our most valued team members is Rachel, our pattern cutter, who has been with me for 20 years. Her experience, technical knowledge, and understanding of my design language are invaluable. At the same time, having younger team members join us brings fresh perspectives, new ideas, and an eagerness to learn.
Bringing these different generations together is not always easy. They can have different ways of thinking, communicating and approaching their work. But I believe it is important for us to learn from one another and find common ground. The experience of our long-serving team members, combined with the energy and fresh perspectives of our younger talents, is what allows us to continue evolving while preserving the craftsmanship.
“The experience of our long-serving team members, combined with the energy and fresh perspectives of our younger talents, is what allows us to continue evolving while preserving the craftsmanship.”
Khoon Hooi is expanding its lifestyle category. Images courtesy of Khoon Hooi.
How are you planning to further develop and scale the brand? Are there new markets, categories, or retail concepts you have already put into motion or plan to explore soon? What can we look forward to from Khoon Hooi as you move into 2027 and beyond?
Our priority is to expand our presence in international markets. We want to reach a wider audience in the United States, including markets such as Dallas, as well as exploring further opportunities across Europe. Beyond ready-to-wear, we also see potential to develop our lifestyle category further. Our design sensibility can extend into thoughtfully crafted accessories and lifestyle products, particularly through the use of upcycled fabrics and the exploration of more responsible design practices. We would like to build on this in a way that feels authentic to Khoon Hooi, while creating new opportunities for the brand to connect with customers beyond occasionwear.
Visit khoonhooi.com for more, and follow @khoonhooi on Instagram.